(I wrote this on the train yesterday; it took a while to find puters with USB. Apologies if it’s dated.)
The dust has settled a bit for our crew. We’ve given our one-armed man hugs to K-Town and ridden the ICE five hours to Berlin, where we expect to spend the next couple days.
We’re still stewing a little about the game. Unable to find an English newspaper at any of the various rail stations where we’ve spent most of the day and cut off from the Internet, the only coverage we’ve been able to digest has been German TV highlights and a copy of today’s La Gazzetta Sportiva. (Shockingly, while the Italian paper thought that Lippi should be blamed for this disastrous result, there was hardly an account that fit with what we had all observed in the stadium: that we had completely outplayed the Italians and stood proudly even when it was 10 v 9.)
You don’t get any sorts of replays in the stadium, so we didn’t know until today how badly McBride had been cut up. We also still don’t have an answer in re: what the call was on the disallowed Beasley goal. I assume our next connection with the Internet will answer some of those questions.
What you need to know about the atmosphere at the game:
–When we arrived in K-Town at 2 in the afternoon, I was pretty concerned about the levels of American support. The Italians were already there, drunk and singing. There seemed to be lots of them and a distinct minority looked like criminals and low lives, and were doing things like calling 12-year-old German girls whores. In all fairness, most were pretty mellow, but there was definitely a group who qualified as the sorts of hooligans the alarmist press is always warning you about. But as the day went on, more and more Americans arrived, and by 5 the scene on the Marktstrasse was loud and charmingly pro-USA. Overall, relations between the USA supporters and the tifosi were pretty chill (with one notable exception, to be discussed at a later date). Just a lot of singing and shouting from both sides.
–The Italians definitely had a much deeper catalog of songs than we did. Our supporters relied way too heavily on “When The [Yanks] Go Marchin’ In,” though I did appreciate the ongoing “America,” “%$&* Yeah!” call-and-response routine. The Italians kept doing this thing where they’d sing opening riff from the first White Stripes record, and it was pretty compelling. Overall, though, the whole thing could have used a bit more things sung to the tune of “Hail To The Victors.” In the interests of good taste, we managed to hold back on the E-A-G-L-E-S chants (though we did sneak one in).
–K-Town was a lovely venue for the pre-game nonsense. It was just small enough to have a festive village feel, but there was still plenty of places and things to check out.
–Though it should go without saying, I went another day without a vegetable. Pork sandwich in the afternoon, kabob at 3 am. Luckily I had plenty of beer in between.
–I was blown away by the fact that almost everyone at the match (especially the USA supporters) had a silly costume on. It was hilarious. Like soccer Mardi Gras. I particularly enjoyed the Italian gladiator dudes, and the guy who was a cross between Captain America and a Viking. Also, these Italian guys had a shopping cart and two gigantic jugs of wine, and were making random people chug. Also, this woman was walking through the Fan Fest in nothing but USA body paint and a g-string.
–All that said, one of the folks in our groups has the best hair we’ve seen yet. Seriously. People stare. And they are right to stare.
–I’ll be curious to hear how it sounded on TV, but the American supporters were louder in the stadium than the Italians. We were sitting in the Italian section (more on that later) and even we were able to shout down the Italians at times. Of course, it helped that our team was playing with heart and pride and their team was playing like a bunch of cheating cowards; I imagine the thrill of cheering for diving and simulation eventually wears off.
–A bunch of English guys were chanting “Same Old Eye-Ties, Always Cheating” to the tune of…I dunno, the little thing that clocks play when they chime the time. Said chant, um, resonated.
–For the avoidance of doubt, this Italian team was complete crap. Before minute 75 (when our guys completely ran out of gas), their offense consisted entirely of lobbing the ball towards Toni and Toni trying to fall down. I remain shocked the game didn’t end on a dubious penalty in the 89th minute. They’ll likely advance, but they will beat no one of consequence. There’s just no there there. And yes, it seriously upsets my sports feelings to have to root for them on Thursday.
–The post-game scene at the USA bars was pretty solid. People were cheesed off about not winning the game, but everyone was pretty ecstatic about how we’d played. After the Czech game, I think everyone was a little worried we’d turn in another stinker. And when you’ve made the effort to fly across the ocean to support your team, that’s not a comfortable feeling. For a lot of people, I think the result last night justified the entire trip.
–Of the course, the absolute best part of the post-game scene was the band playing at the main Fan Fest: Bon Jovi tribute band BONGIOVIO. Uh huh. That’s right. Bongiovio. Tough not to believe that was an omen.
June 19th, 2006 at 12:16 pm
Initial responses:
1. I’m jealous. Very, very jealous.
2. Great job rooting the Americans home on Sat.
3. Call on the disallowed DMB goal was offsides on McBride. He was well in front of the final Italian defender. Normally, this wouldn’t matter on a goal that he didn’t touch, but he was screening the goalie due to his offside position. McB himself acknowledged after the game that it was the right call.
4. It was apparent during the TV broadcast of the US / Italy game that the crowd was, on balance, pro-US. Which was hard to believe.
5. I think we are going to be starting Conrad at back for the Ghana match. Which I don’t like given how explosive Ghana’s strikers have been so far (although they will be without some firepower due to cards, also).
June 19th, 2006 at 1:42 pm
Correct me if I’m wrong here, but I think the Beasley goal was disallowed because McBride was offsides.
June 19th, 2006 at 4:37 pm
Watched the entire match on a 3.5″ portable TV (that I paid too much for at a shady electronics place in Times Sq) in the following three venues:
1) Bus up to a wedding in CT (spotty reception, but enough to see the ITA goal and the own ITA goal).
2) The cemetery behind the church (perfect reception with the help of the spirits; I had my #10 Reyna jersey draped over the headstone in our own little shrine).
3) The back left pew of the church (the sound was off, but I think we got the gist of it).
So if we were truly gathered in the site of God, then yea verily will the Uruguayan ref be doomed to eternal hellfire, or some Canadian club league.
The Old Man’s head will guide us, a beacon to victory on Thursday.
June 20th, 2006 at 9:12 am
I was in Wyoming at a writing conference all weekend. People from the western part of the country are not huge soccer fans. The scene in the hotel bar went something like this:
[general grumbling when I change the channel from something starring James Garner in a bolero to the USA-Italy game].
Me: (Hoping to appeal to their xenophobic red-state patriotism) “The USA World Cup game is on! Go USA!”
Cowboy Writer 1: “That soccer?”
Me: “Yes. USA soccer!”
Cowboy Writer 1: “Thems the boys runnin’ around in little shorts?”
Me: “Yes.”
Cowboy Writer 2 (talking in a high-pitched voice): “Oh, I gotta run around in my little shorts and kick the ball in the net!”
Me: “You’re both submitting your novels to my publishing house aren’t you?”
Cowboy Writer 1 & 2: [silent]
Cowboy Writer 1: “Go USA!”
Needless to say, I won the television for the rest of the afternoon.
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